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3 min readUpdated 23 September, 2026

1. Starting on an uneven floor

The floor is the datum for the whole structure. If it is out of level, floor panels rock, wall panels lean, and ceiling panels will not seat. Gaps form throughout, producing air leaks, degraded insulation, doors that will not close, and excessive energy use.

Prevention. Check level with a laser level or a long (≥1200 mm) spirit level before any work begins. The tolerance is ±3 mm per metre. Correct a poor slab with self-levelling compound, or shim under floor panels until the base is true. Never proceed on a foundation you have not verified.

2. Forcing misaligned panels

When a panel will not slide home cleanly, the temptation is to hammer or lever it into place. The result is damaged tongue-and-groove profiles, crushed gaskets, and dented skins. The panel may look connected yet never achieve a seal.

Prevention. If a panel resists, stop. Check alignment, clear any debris from the groove, and confirm the previous panels sit correctly. The tongue should enter the groove under only gentle hand pressure — the cam-lock supplies the clamping force, not your shoulder. Use a rubber mallet for nudging, never a steel hammer.

3. Skipping plumb checks

Under time pressure, installers skip verifying that each panel is truly vertical. The error is silent but cumulative: a panel leaning 5 mm at the floor is 10 mm out at the top of the wall. By ceiling height the geometry no longer closes, and every remaining joint is a compromise.

Prevention. Check plumb in both axes on every single panel before engaging its cams. Brace temporarily where needed. Adjustment after locking is possible but slow and difficult — get it right the first time.

4. Incomplete cam-lock engagement

The cam-lock is the defining feature of this construction: an eccentric cam, turned with a hex key (typically 6 mm or 8 mm), grips a steel pin and draws two panels together under tension. Turning it only part-way leaves the cam without grip — gaskets do not compress, and a joint that feels solid on day one works loose under thermal cycling.

Prevention. Turn the cam until you feel a definite, sharp increase in resistance — the joint should feel tight. Do not over-torque, but confirm full engagement by trying to shift the panels relative to each other: there should be no play. Then move on.

Cam-lock joint section — the tongue of panel A sits in the groove of panel B, where a gasket is compressed when the joint is locked; an eccentric cam in panel A, turned with a hex key through the inner face, hooks a steel pin in panel B and pulls the panels together with up to 400 kg per hook.
How a cam-lock joint works

Why these four come first

MistakeIf left uncorrected, it causes…
Uneven floor (1)Leaning walls, ceiling gaps, door that won't seal
Forced panels (2)Crushed gaskets, permanent leak path
Skipped plumb (3)Cumulative lean; nothing fits at ceiling height
Loose cam-locks (4)Joints work loose under thermal cycling

Each fault propagates into the door, sealing, and commissioning stages — so verifying as you build is far cheaper than dismantling later.


Guidance reflects the MTH Algor cam-lock panel system supplied by Frostbox. For project-specific installation queries, contact [email protected].

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